A walk around Kolkata’s south Indian food zone

How many masalas go into making the perfect sambar powder? About 15, says the internet. But if you go out with that question on the fish-and-rice loving streets of Kolkata, you’ll probably find the right answer in the lanes and bylanes around Lake Market. For those who love dosas and idlis, this part of town is Mecca.
The vegetable stalls sell all the greens you need in a south Indian kitchen.The grocers stock everything from gunpowder masala to Chettinad mixes. And then there are the restaurants. Almost every road here houses an iconic institution — Udipi Home, Raj, Ramakrishna Lunch Home, Prema Vilas — that vies for the tag of the best south Indian restaurant in town.
You’ll be spoilt for choice here. From fluffy idlis to paper-thin dosas, there’s something for every vegetarian foodie. If you crave non-veg, you can always walk into Tamarind or Ammini. But why is food from the south so popular in this area? It appears that this is the locality where many south Indian families settled after independence, when Kolkata was a city of grand opportunities. Those prospects may have vanished over the decades, but culinary opportunities still abound if you know where to look. So, after a few days of trawling the streets, here’s our pick of lip-smacking south Indian fare from around Lake Market. Welcome — or should we say, wanakkam — to the best idlis, dosas, upmas, uthappams and filter coffees in the city.
ANURADHA CAFÉ
Where: 47A Justice Chandra Madhab Road, Lala Lajpat Rai Sarani, Bhawanipur
Since: 1994
It may be a bit short on space, but this café scores 10/10 when it comes to the taste of its offerings. Minutes away from Bhawanipur College, its south Indian breakfast is a big draw, especially on Sunday mornings.
Must try: Idly upma, mixed vegetable uttapam
RAJ RESTAURANT
Where: 10/2 Monoharpukur Road, Near Rash Behari Avenue, Hazra
Since: 1961
This old and famous eatery has AC and non-AC sections, has quick service and boasts of great south Indian food. No wonder, it's an ideal destination for your Sunday brunch.
Must have: Mixed uttapam, podi idli (idli smeared with gun powder), dancing coffee
AMMINI
Where: 22/1C Monoharpukur Road, near Sarat Bose Road, Hazra
Since: 2011
Its specialty is cuisine from Kerala and the taste is to die for! The food is not too spicy and is served on trays lined with banana leaves along with clay cups filled with buttermilk or water.
Must try: Appams, iddyappams, dry mutton, Kohzi curry
PREMA VILLASWhere: 63/1 Rash Behari Avenue, Lake Market area Since: 1960
This old restaurant draws in quite a lot of south Indian food lovers. Simple yet neat and tidy, it exudes a hygienic ambience that adds a homely touch to the interiors.
Must try: Dancing coffee, masala idly, special thali
BANANA LEAF
Where: 73 & 75 Rash Behari Avenue, Lake Market area
Since: 2003 This restaurant offers a large variety of south Indian items along with an array of thalis and mini meals. In fact, the menu is long enough to leave you confused about what to order!
Must try: Uttapam platter (five different varieties), dosa, idli
RAMAKRISHNA LUNCH HOME
Where: Bhupendra Mansion, 36 Kabi Bharati Sarani, Sarat Bose Road, Southern Avenue
Since: 1955 The oldest of the lot, this restaurant’s USP is the fresh, authentic and steaming south Indian dishes it offers at reasonable rates. No wonder it sees long queues on Sundays.
Must try: Masala vada, masala uttapam, filter coffee
PAI’S MALGUDI
Where: 54/4D Garcha Road, opposite Chirag Apartments
Since: February 2015 Remember Malgudi restaurant on Camac Street? Well, it has since shifted south. And its reworked menu is sure to titillate your taste buds, as it has all popular south Indian dishes, albeit with a bit of a twist.
Must try: Thattu dosa, coconut uttapam, special thali
TAMARIND
Where: 177 Sarat Bose Road, Rash Behari Avenue, Opposite Deshapriya Park
Since: 2007 The menu here is a bit hatke, as it boasts of dishes from all over south India and even Sri Lanka. It even includes non-veg items from the southern states and each dish’s origin is clearly specified.
Must try: Chicken chettinad, mutton stew with coriander rice, appam, kuzhi paniyaram (shallow-fried dumplings) and Coorg paneer
SOUTH INDIA CLUB CANTEEN
Where: 70B Hindustan Park Road, Gariahat
Since: 1970
This cozy little place with plastic furniture boasts of a simple yet delicious fare. Though the menu is pretty short, the items look and taste authentic. Watching the waiters mix the filter coffee is a treat you shouldn’t miss.
Must try: Lemon rice, veg meal (thali)
UDIPI HOME
Where: 25 Jatin Das Road, Deshapriya Park
Since: 1969
This homely place has been around for quite a while and the steel utensils add to that feel. Every dish is accompanied by three chutneys — coriander, onion and coconut.
Must try: Butter masala dosa, rava dosa, sada vada, masala uttappam